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Suffolk is fit for the Prime Minister.
A trip back in time
Vanessa Williams5/ 8/2008
IF your idea of the perfect British seaside holiday creates childhood images of Punch and Judy shows, a boating lake and rich dairy ice cream, then jump in the car and drive to Suffolk, on the south east coast for a nostalgic weekend break.
When I tried to explain to friends where I was going for a short holiday, I was met with a variety of quizzical expressions. No one had a clue where it was or why I should want to go there in the first place. Some thought it was south of London... or perhaps near Devon. It was a geographical mystery, which I should imagine is just how the locals like to keep it.
However, this small section of Britain's coastline is making headline news at the moment as it's the summer holiday destination of beleagured Prime Minister Gordon Brown.
But while the Browns try to escape their troubles in Southwold, I was heading further down the coast to Aldeburgh.
Driving into the town of Aldeburgh, halfway up the Suffolk coast, is like driving into a town 50 years ago. The sleepy surrounding landscape is reminiscent of neighbouring Norfolk with flat, marshy expanses and little fishing boats bobbing across the horizon.
Horse and carriages
As you pull into the high street, you could almost imagine horse and carriages parading up and down on their way to the waters' edge. Aldeburgh, like the rest of Suffolk, is a mecca for foodies and you are never many steps away from your next mouthwatering experience. The high street is bursting with coffee shops, seafood restaurants and is home to the local delicatessen, Lawsons of Aldeburgh.
My advice would be to get to Lawsons early in order to sample their freshly delivered traditional Gloucester Old Spot pork pie, a succulent treat best served with a dollop of pickle. I promise you will never taste another pork pie quite like it.
The business is run by a couple of well known foodie figures in Suffolk, husband and wife team Claire Bruce Clayton and Richard Lawson. Both restaurateurs, they also run a successful outside catering company specializing in `field and hedgerow' feasts serving such unique delicacies as nettle risotto, wild garlic bread and rabbit terrine.
If you feel overwhelmed by all the fresh local ingredients on offer and need inspiration, you could enrol on a course with the Aldeburgh Cookery School, further up the high street.
The school is run by restaurateur Sara Fox with food author Thane Prince who hold courses through the week including one called `Men in the Kitchen' which is due to take place this month.
Lighthouse
The cookery school is just opposite Sara's restaurant, The Lighthouse, which serves superfresh local dishes such as dressed Cromer crab salad with herb mayonnaise or fillet of sea bass on piedmontese pepper with spinach and new potatoes, all very reasonably priced.
A few miles down the road, lies the historic town of Orford, which has remained relatively unchanged since it was painted by Turner in the 19th century.
The town is home to the the Crown And Castle Hotel, where you can rub shoulders with former Channel Five Hotel Inspector, and owner of the hotel, Ruth Watson.
We thought we would pop in for lunch but after scanning the delicious menu featuring Orford-caught lobster and local oysters, we decided that our trackie bottoms were a little out of place. The manager was extremely friendly and offered the suggestion that we would feel more relaxed at the pub they run across the square, The Kings Head.
He was right, we totally forgot our ill advised wardrobe as we got stuck into a doorstep of white bread with melted cheese and Suffolk cured bacon perched on top.
The trusty Gloucester old spot pork pie was on the menu along with a dizzying choice of comfort food including the option of Birds Eye frozen peas as a side order.
There are lots of activities you can do that won't work up a sweat.
The tourist office has a selection of maps that take you on walks around the marshes as well as information about where you can stay in the area.
There are also boat trips, or you could visit Southwold, well known for the colourful beach huts along the shore and famous pier. Although you might want to wait until the PM's gone back to Downing Street.
Vanessa stayed in a self catering two bedroom cottage on the sea front which cost £570 for the week, available on
choosesuffolk.com
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